MOH's scale of Hardness

Scale Hardness Material
1 Can be scratched easily with a fingernail Sulphur: 1 - 1 1/2
2 Can be scratched with fingernail Amber: 2 - 3
Ivory: 2 - 4
3 Can be scratched with coin Pearl: 3 - 4
Coral: 3 - 4
Malachite: 3 1/2 - 4
4 Can be scratched easily with a knife; cannot scratch glass Rhodochrosite: 4
5 Can be scratched with a knife; can just scratch glass Lapis Lazuli: 5 - 6
Turquoise: 5 - 6
Opal: 5 1/2 - 6 1/2
6 Can be scratched with a steel file; easily scratches window/bottle glass Moonstone: 6 - 6 1/2
Tanzanite: 6 1/2 - 7
Peridot: 6 1/2 - 7
Zircon: 6 1/2 - 7 1/2
7 Easily scratches metal, glass and softer stones Quartz, Citrine, and Amethyst: 7
Tourmaline: 7 - 7 1/2
Garnet: 7 - 7 1/2
Emerald: 7 1/2 - 8
8 Scratches quartz and softer stones Topaz: 8
Alexandrite: 8 1/2
9 Scratches topaz and softer stones Ruby: 9
Sapphire: 9
10 Scratches ruby Diamond: 10

FAQ

Do our crystals have lead?

SwarovskiR crystal tests at 21% lead. CelestialT crystals test at 12 to 14% lead. Czech fire-polished crystals have no lead. This accounts for the weight difference in the crystals and it serves as an easy way to tell whether or not you are getting a Swarovski crystal as opposed to something else.

What does "Opera Length" mean?

Some people refer to Opera length as 26"-36". I like to think of it as 28"-34". An Opera length necklace can be worn in a variety of ways. When the opera length is worn as a single strand, it is refined and perfect for high or crew neckline.

Can I buy your products wholesale?

At this time Isabella's Beads is offering wholesale merchandise, but not without limitations. Everything I make is done by hand and no piece of jewelry is mass produced. There are certain items that could be made easier than others (I.e., Key chains, "Simple" earring designs, Simple rings, etc.), and the turn around time would be pretty quick. However, more complex pieces will take a little bit longer depending on what you'd like, and of course if I need to replenish inventory to make several of the same piece that could add a little to the time. I don't expect that any moderate sized order would ever take longer than 2 weeks. Please see our Wholesale Information section for requirements.

Can tarnish remover be used on Silver-Plated and Gold-Plated jewelry?

It is better that you didn't use it on those pieces. Tarnish remover can be too harsh for plated items. It was designed for sterling silver, gold, copper or brass jewelry. It works in just a few seconds (2-10) and will remove stubborn oxidation and tarnish. Do not use this product on articles containing porous stones, pearls, painted jewelry, aluminum, stainless steel or lacquered surfaces. Do not immerse jewelry items in the tarnish remover, dip them.

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How do I measure for a bracelet?

As always, the best way to get an accurate length is to measure your favorite bracelet. If you don't have a bracelet that you'd like to use as a guide, take a tape measure and wrap it around your wrist completely until slightly snug and then add 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.

How do I measure for an anklet?

As always, the best way to get an accurate length is to measure your favorite anklet. If you don't have an anklet that you'd like to use as a guide, the first thing you need to do is determine where you would like to wear your anklet (above or below the bone). Take a tape measure and wrap it around your ankle completely until slightly snug and then add 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch depending on how loose you prefer the jewelry.

How do you tell a Genuine Pear from an Imitation Pearl?

There is a simple test that the layman can do when wanting to test for authenticity. Train yourself with a pearl that you know is genuine and one you know is not.

To test, simply rub the pearl on the smooth surface of your tooth. The imitation will feel smooth as it rubs across the tooth surface. On the genuine you will feel a slight resistance; some describe it as slightly gritty. Train yourself to the sensation and be a more educated buyer.

Pearls benefit from being worn; the warm body temperature and natural oils from the skin enhance the luster. Enjoy your pearls for what they are, true organic gems.

Is the color on dyed pearls permanent?

Because pearls are porous, they often absorb human oils, makeup and perfume, which can stain. In fact, pearls are soft, porous and accepting to all contact with natural and chemical substances, such as dyes. Pearl treaters take advantage of this porosity to achieve finer, more uniform colors with natural extracts and inorganic and/or chemical dyes. These dyes can fade over time. But to stress the positive: matched strands are easier to create, and more affordable.

What is the difference between Natural and Cultured Pearls?

Natural pearls are formed when an irritant, such as a grain of sand, finds its way into an oyster (or mussel) without any human intervention. When you come across these mollusks in the "wild" you will rarely find a pearl of commercial value inside their shell.

Cultured freshwater pearls are formed in much the same way.

On a cultured pearl farm, a specialist will inoculate the oyster with a modified syringe, which injects tiny seeds of glass, sand or mother-of-pearl into the interior of the oyster.

To protect itself, the oyster begins to cover the irritant with a protective surface, called nacre. This nacre has a unique natural luster, and varying colors. As the oyster lives, it continues to cover the irritant, gaining in size and creating a larger pearl.

Not just one pearl comes out of each oyster. Many freshwater pearls grow in one oyster.

Oysters on pearl farms are meticulously cared for. The inoculated oysters are put into small mesh baskets in clean ponds. They are strung on lines, spaced at intervals and suspended at optimum depth for warmth, light and absorption of nutrients. Each day, every oyster shell is checked for health. If one shows any indication of ill health or distress, it is immediately removed from the pond. Its ill health could affect the entire production of the pond within one day.

Oysters feed on a mixture of fermented soy, crushed grains, rice, and secret ingredients, exclusive to each pearl farm, and based on years of experience. It smells terrible!

Age, no stress, and quality of life create a large size pearl. The longer the pearl is in the oyster, the thicker the nacre.

What is the difference between Salt Water and Freshwater Pearls?

Saltwater pearls are usually larger and are found in oysters in parts of the oceans and other bodies of saltwater around the world. Some of the more well know places are the Philippines, Indonesia, Thailand and Burma in South East Asia. Australia and Tahiti in the South Pacific are where some of the largest pearls are grown and where you will also find the beautiful black pearls. Other well known pearl growing areas are near the Arabian Sea in the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea and near Sri Lanka. Finally, there are the smaller Akoya pearls which traditionally have been associated with Japan but which can be found many other places in Asia.

Freshwater pearls are found growing in mussels living in lakes and streams all over the world including the USA and Europe. These pearls tend to be less expensive than saltwater pearls even in the same size and color. The best known, and probably the best quality as well as the most expensive freshwater pearls, are the Biwa pearls cultivated in Lake Biwa in Japan. Due to pollution, the production of authentic Biwa pearls has dropped sharply and many of the so called Biwa pearls you see actually come from many other places. The largest producer of freshwater pearls today is China and the continuous improvement in quality over the last ten years combined with the low cost of labor makes these pearls a true bargain for the time being.

What is the difference between seed bead finishes such as matte, inside color, transparent, etc.?

AB (Aurora Borealis) - This finish is achieved by placing a pastel multicolored coating on the surface of the bead.

Ceylon - A pearl luster finish. Sometimes the color of this bead fades when exposed to strong sunlight.

Inside Color - The surface layer is clear while the color adhered to the inside shows through the clear layer.

Iris - An iridescent coating with multiple hues, usually on dark, opaque beads

Luster - Transparent, opal or opaque beads with a transparent, uniform, slightly shiny finish that is usually permanent. Finishes may be white, colored or even gold.

Matte - A finish that has a dulled or less shiny, perhaps frosty appearance. Light does not reflect off the surface as it does with a highly polished surface. Matte beads have a velvety or frosted surface. You can matte finish your own beads with Dip N'Etch. Matte iridescent beads are both iridescent and matte. These cannot be etched to make simply matte.

Metallic or Galvanized - A shiny, very reflective coating that gives the bead a look of metal. Metallic or galvanized beads are glass with a shiny metal like surface coating that is usually a baked-on product. Test the beads overnight in bleach, aceton or alcohol to check for permanence. Try not to use on bracelets or backs of necklaces where they will receive abrasions or anywhere they may receive a lot of sunlight. Three or four coats of a spray fixative can prevent the surface from wearing off quickly. Bronze, hematite and copper are more permanent because they actually have a metallic luster finish.

Opaque - Light cannot pass through an opaque bead because opaque beads transmit no light. You can't see the thread in an opaque bead.

Opaque Matte - They are the same as opaque beads (light does not pass through) but with a dulled or non-shiny surface.

Rainbow - An iridescent coating on the outside of either opaque or transparent beads.

Silver Lined - A transparent colored or clear outer layer which allows the silver lining on the inside to glisten through, giving added reflection. Silver-lined beads are made with a transparent or opal glass and have a mirror-like reflective lining in their holes. Usually, but not always, the hole is square to enhance the bead's reflective quality.

Translucent - Somewhat clear (not as clear as transparent) - light can pass through.

Transparent - Light passes through a transparent bead much like it would through a stained glass window. (You can see through it.) Transparent beads transmit light and you can see into or through them, even when they're colored. More lively or ''sparkly'' than opaque beads.

Iridescent beads - Are transparent, opal or opaque beads with a durable, multicolored shiny finish applied by fuming metal salts onto the hot glass to form a permanent bond

   

*Information courtesy of Firemountain Gems


Bead Dictionary

New beads and components are continuously being created and added to my jewelry designs. This page is updated frequently, although if there is any bead you would like information for that is not listed here, please send me an email.

Acrylic Resin

Transparent man-made resins used in making molded plastics.

Aurora Borealis

AKA "AB" finish, it covers half of the bead with a coating that gives off an iridescent rainbow appearance. Some Swarovski crystals are available in ABx2 finish, which coats the entire crystal and completely changes the entire look of the same color crystal.

Bakelite

The trademarked name for synthetic resins and plastics developed by a US chemist. Jewelry pieces made of Bakelite, especially with animal and fruit motifs, were extremely popular in the US in the 1930s and are now considered collectors items. Though still a highly specialized category. Bakelite has had something of a renaissance in this country in recent years

Bali Gold Vermeil Beads

These beads are created with 24k carat gold electroplating over Bali .925 silver beads.

Bali Silver

Imported handcrafted sterling silver beads from Bali Indonesia. Made with a minimum of 92.5% sterling silver and 7.5% lead or copper. Bali .925 silver beads are available in an oxidized finished with the black accents and a bright finish look. They are both .925 silver and it is just a matter of customer preference of which one looks best. They are also available in an unusual look consisting of copper and .925 silver. There is a difference between Bali beads and Bali style beads. True Bali Beads are actually crafted in Indonesia where other Bali style beads are created to imitate the style of Bali silver beads. The Bali beads are very amazing with such a variety of intricate patterns in the silver.

Baroque Pearl

An irregularly-shaped pearl.

Bicone

A diamond shape cone created from two faceted cones lined up and connected at the base. Swarovski crystals come in a variety of sizes and colors. Please "click here" (hyper link) to visit our Swarovski information page.

Biwa

A cultured pearl originally non-nucleated, grown in a freshwater mussel from Lake Biwa in Japan. Only those actually produced there should be called Biwas; others are simply called freshwater cultured pearls.

Bronzite Gemstones

A brown gemstone in pyroxene mineral family. The iron like substance creates a metallic bronze like sheen on the surface of the gemstone.

Cameo

A carved gem or shell, in which the carved design stands out against a background of a different color.

Cane Glass Beads

Handcrafted furnace glass cane beads are high quality beads made by several companies in the United States, each bead is handcrafted one by one with cane glass rods.

Cats Eye Beads

Also known as Fiber Optic Beads that come bead in a variety of brilliant shades with a reflective band of light creating a unique 'Cats Eye' look. The grade 'A' Fiber optic glass beads are the most reflective and come in more brilliant colors vs. the less expensive 'B' grade.

Celestial Crystals

Hand-faceted genuine leaded crystal glass made in the Orient.

Celluloid

Thermoplastic material that was commonly used in jewelry before the invent of injection molding. Now used to simulate tortoiseshell

Chalcedony

Various types of colored quartz, usually with a milky appearance, including carnelian, agate, cat's eye and jasper.

Chatelaine

An ornamental chain, pin or clasp, usually worn at a womans waist, to which trinkets, keys, a purse, or other articles are attached. Also used to refer to pins with two figures linked together by a chain.

China Crystals

These glass beads are less expensive and are lead-free created to resemble Swarovski crystals. Although even with the naked eye you can immediately spot the Swarovski crystal when side by side with the China crystals, the difference is remarkable.

Cloisonné Beads

Interesting beads with intricate patterns created in the silver or gold metal and then filled in with decorative colored enamel then the bead is fused together.

Cubic Zirconia

Synthetic gemstone developed in 1977 to simulate a diamond.

Cultured Pearls

Pearls made from freshwater sources, often from man made sources. These pearls are from organic sources and vary in size, shape, and color.

Czech Glass Beads

'Old Style' beads in which the beads are machine cut made in the Czech Republic.

Czech Seed Beads

Glass seed beads made in Czech Republic, these 'Old Style' beads are usually less uniform sizes and have smaller holes vs. the Japanese seed beads.

Delica Seed Beads

The most uniform seed bead made. Glass beads made of precisely cut glass, uniform in size, shape, and color. They tend to have a more brilliant color and larger holes than the Czech seed beads.

Diamond Cut .925 Silver

These have been called diamond cut style and sparkling silver beads. They have a bright finish and have shiny intricate uniform patterns cut into the beads giving them a bright dazzling appearance that is unique from the Bali oxidized style bead.

Electroplating

Coating a metal surface (in fashion or bridge jewelry, usually with copper, nickel, chromium, gold, silver or rhodium) by means of electrolysis. The amount of electroplate on an object is measured in microns (one micron = .001 mm). See also Gold Electroplating and Silver Plate.

Embossing

The process of raising a domed design on the front of a piece of metal by beating it from behind with punches and a hammer.

Faux Pearls

These are usually plastic bead with a imitation 'pearl' coating that create a inexpensive pearl look in uniform sizes. Often this 'pearl coating' will crack or rub off over time leaving the original unattractive bead that it started as. Isabella's Beads uses Swarovski's crystal-based pearls as they are scratch resistant and are a higher quality that is designed for longer wear.

Filigree

Lace-like ornamental work of fine gold or silver wire.

Finding

Manufactured components used to create jewelry. Generally, findings provide the structure for the jewelry design; the ornamentation is provided by both the design of the finding as well as the gems, beads or other decoration that is added. Findings include jump rings, clasps, bails, headpins, ear wires, and charms, to name a few.

Focal Component

Any item that is used as the central element in a necklace, bracelet, or other jewelry design. A focal component is intended to be the main attention-getter, the "focal point." Examples include pendants, carved gemstone beads, cabochons in settings, etc. Sometimes referred to as a "station."

Gold Electroplate

An electrolytic coating with gold, or with an alloy of not less than 10% fineness to a minimum thickness throughout that is equivalent to seven millionths of an inch. This means that where the fineness is less than 24kt, the thickness must be proportionately greater, so that the same amount of fine gold is seven millionths of an inch, it may be marked - heavy gold electroplate.

Gold-filled Beads

Carat gold plated on top of top of some type of base metal, which could be iron, copper, or another type of inexpensive metal.

Grade A

Pearls are almost completely smooth with less than 10% imperfections. These pearls have an extremely good luster.

Grade AA

Medium luster pearls are thick are slightly off in shape and contain light blemishes or imperfections.

Grade AAA

High luster pearls are very thick almost completely round and smooth and contain none or very few blemishes or imperfections. The best pearls are usually selected for earrings.

Grade B

Pearls contain some imperfections over less than 30% of the surface and can still have a beautiful luster to them. Most pearls will fall into the B grade. I don't use any pearl below Grade B in my designs.

Grade C

Pearls contain some ripples and imperfections over less than 70% of their surface and have an average luster.

Grade D

Pearls contain imperfections over more than 70% of their surface but not extreme. This is the lowest grade a pearl can be.

Granulation

One of the oldest jewelry design techniques, dating to 2500 BC. Tiny grains of gold or other metal are stuck to a surface as ornaments

Heishi

Heishi (pronounced Hee-Shee) is a term that was originally used by Pueblo Indians to describe shell disks of a consistent size that had been drilled and strung as a necklace, creating a rope-like tube that was as fluid as a serpent when it moved.

Today, this term is synonymous with thin, uniform disk-shaped shell, gemstone and metal beads that are center drilled and strung in a row.

Inlays

To set pieces of wood or ivory, for example, into a surface, usually at the same level, to form a design.

Intaglio

Decoration made by carving or engraving a design into a gem or other hard material. Intaglio is the opposite of cameo.

Lampwork Glass Beads

Handcrafted glass beads made one at a time with a seven step process, which increases the cost compared to normal pressed glass beads, slender rods are manipulated to particular shape using a torch then placed in a kiln to harden.There is a difference between handcrafted Lampwork glass beads and mass produced Lampwork beads that are created in factories for pennies. With the personal touch that goes into a handcrafted Lampwork beads by the Artist; such as the best glass rods, unique color combinations and designs, and a bead that is not mass produced also comes a higher priced one of a kind sought after finished jewelry design. Some of the Lampwork beads used in some of my designs are created by US artists and some are imported glass beads from other countries. Some of the beads used are mass produced and others are limited editions. Some are just impossible to find again.

Lariat

An open ended necklace that is held together by a flexible element such as a drop or ring. Length is 48" or longer.

Marcasite

Many of the pendants you will see with small inlayed stones are called 'Marcasite Pendants' but it is really another term in the jewelry world for pyrite. Both Marcasite and Pyrite are made up of the same composite minerals although their structure is slightly different.

Matinee-length

A single row necklace ranging form 20 inches to 25 inches length

Matte Glass Beads

These glass beads have been created with a rough dull finish to give the matte almost frosty and then shined up slightly.

Metallic Finish

Normal glass beads that have been given a lustrous sparkling 'metal' like finish on the bead, normally as a substance coating over the surface of the bead.

Micron

A unit of length equivalent to 0.001 mm, used for measuring the thickness of electroplating.

Millefiori

Created by fusion of several glass rods arranged so that the cross-section creates a flower or pattern with a mosaic-like appearance.

Moh's Scale of Hardness

This refers to the hardness of a gemstone on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest. A Diamond has a scale of 10. Click here to see Moh's Scale.

Nickel

A silver-white metal popular for plating because it is malleable and resists oxidation. The most common of metal allergies.

Niobium

Niobium items are made of a hypo-allergenic metal first engineered to protect hypersonic aerospace vehicles from extreme conditions. After manufacturing into the desired shape - such as earwires, headpins, eyepins or jumprings - the natural grey base metal niobium is then anodized to create six signature colors. Most people who are metal-sensitive can comfortably wear niobium. Although the anodized jewel tone colors are not certified hypo-allergenic, most metal sensitive people can wear them comfortably.

Opera-length

An especially long strand necklace. Length is 26 inches to 36 inches.

Oxidized Finish

This oxidized finish can be found on .925 sterling silver and silver-plated beads. This look is created by darkening segments of the bead giving it an 'antiqued' silver finish look. Silver naturally oxidizes as it is exposed to air.

Pave Setting

The method of setting stones very close together so that very little metal shows between them.

Pearl Essence

Also called essence d'orient. A crystalline substance extracted from fish scales and combined with acrylic resins. Used to make imitation pearls. In better imitations, the essence is applied over opaline glass beads; in cheaper imitations, over plastic beads. Discovered in 1565 by Jaquin, a French manufacturer of rosaries, when he accidentally dipped some pearls into water in which he had washed fish. Refined versions today produce spectacular results.

Pewter

These are cast metal beads that are made without lead. However, these beads may contain trace amounts of lead which could require a warning in some states. I have been assured by the companies that produce these cast metal beads that they are safe to use in jewelry designs and safe to wear.

Precious Stones

Rare and costly gems: diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires

Princess Length

An 18" length necklace.

Quartz Gemstones

Quartz can be heated to produce a variety of colors including amethyst. Lighter shades of amethyst can be heated to create citrine, and partially heated to create ametrine.

Repousse

Patterns or decorations achieved with punches or chasing hammers.

Resin

A solid or semi-solid organic (carbon based) material, either natural or synthetic. In general, non-soluble in water.

Rhinestone

Originally quartz from the gold washings along the Rhine river. Today, generally means colorless potash-and-lead glass that contains quartz in the form of melted lead crystal and is cut like a diamond. Also called strass, diamante.

Rhodium

An expensive whitish-gray metallic element from the platinum family.

Ruby Gemstone

This gemstone is from the mineral corundum and comes in a range of colors from pink to brown. Other color variations would be in the sapphire family. On a scale of 1-10 ruby has the hardness factor of a 9. Rubies have a wide range of prices depending on the cut, color, clarity, and size of the gemstone.

Satin Finish

A coating that creates a satin like appearance on the outer surface of the bead.

Sautoir

A long necklace, usually made of pearls or beads and often ending in a tassel. Popularized in the 1920's

Scarab

An image of a beetle held sacred by ancient Egyptians, carved in a stone or gem.

Semiprecious Stones

Natural stones that generally have a lower value than precious stones, including amethyst, aventurine, carnelian, garnet, opal, rose quartz, and others. Primarily used in fashion jewelry.

Silver Filled

A mechanical bonding with a silver alloy of at least 92.5 percent fineness. The bonding must be equal to at least one-twentieth of the metal in the article. This can also be called silver overlay, but never silver plate.

Silver-plated Beads

Silver-plated beads are Sterling silver on top of some type of base metal, which could be iron, copper, or another type of inexpensive metal.

Sterling Silver Beads

In order for Sterling Silver to receive the stamp .925 it must contain a minimum of 92.5% pure sterling silver alloy. The other 7% is made with other metals, usually copper. Silver is soft and easy to work and a very desirable material to use in jewelry designing. The alloy sterling silver alone is soft and must be combined with other metals to keep its form. The 7% based metal varies from suppliers which means not all sterling silver is created equal. Silver is best stored away from air in plastic zip lock bags, as it tarnishes quickly with long exposures to air. This is known as oxidation

Swarovski Austrian Crystals

This Austrian company has been the leading manufacturer of crystals since 1892 when Daniel Swarovski created the automatic cutting machine. These crystals contain 30-32% lead, depending on the color, and produce a highly refractive quality.

Many other companies create lead crystal beads but the quality in Swarovski is unmistakable and their brilliance is truly unmatched. When the beads are placed side by side the Swarovski crystal bead stands out beside it's competitor's bead every time.

Swarovski Pearls

These beads are created for durability and strength. They are uniform in size and are created by the same company that produces Swarovski Austrian crystals. These gorgeous crystal-based pearls are scratch resistant and have a satin like luster and come in a variety of colors.

Tailored Jewelry

Jewelry constructed entirely of metal and without stones. Introduced by Alfred Phillippe, who drew for Trifari.

Torsade

A popular choker-type, multi-strand necklace in which the strands twist around each other.

Traditional Birthstones:

January - Garnet
February - Amethyst
March - Aquamarine
April - Crystal; Diamond
May - Emerald
June - Moonstone; Alexandrite
July - Ruby
August - Peridot
September - Sapphire
October - Tourmaline; Opal
November - Topaz; Citrine
December - Blue Topaz;Tanzanite

Turkish Silver Beads

Wonderful sterling silver beads handcrafted with quality in Turkey. The intricate beads are crafted with 95% sterling silver and 5% cadmium. The alloy Cadmium helps prevent the silver from tarnishing quickly although the price is considerably higher than the Bali 92.5% silver beads. Turkish beads weigh less than Bali silver since they contain more silver which is a lighter alloy. The cadmium gives the beads a brighter cleaner look.

Venetian Glass Beads

Imported handcrafted glass beads from Venice, Italy. Venetian glass beads date back to 1291 and the beads are exquisite! The focal pendants used are unique and created with high quality glass and have 24k gold white gold and/or .925 sterling silver foiled melted in the glass.

White Metal

Alloys with heavy tin or lead content, such as pewter. Also called Britannia metal or tin plate. One of the most commonly used metals in costume jewelry.

    
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